Monday, July 28, 2008

A Pattern's Redesign

Here's the pattern photo with the original style. Robin asked what pattern it was so here it is:

Here's my current version/interpretation of this pattern--look Ma, no neck gape :) !

Here is how I wore it out today. DD#1 said absolutely nothing about the top. Do you know what that means??? She approves! She even commented, "Mom, you need different shoes with that top. Some pretty sandals..." I agree. Shoes, like coordinating fabric, is not my strength.

I've made this top three times before, alterating and redesigning as I go, but my current version shown below is has been more of a major redesign of the pattern. My previous pattern reviews of this pattern include my alterations, but this one has minor tweaks. I did an addition 1/4" (1/2" total) broad back alteration on the upper back piece and back midriff band.

The first version I made from this was in silk dupioni. It was a tad snug in the back but still wearable. My second and third versions didn't matter because I used a stretch knit. My current version is made from a non-stretch woven so I wanted a smidge more back room on the midriff and upper back pieces.

My major redesign was to remove the CF seam on the upper front pieces, make a deep scoop neck instead of a V, remove about 3/8" of possible front neck gape using Method 1 from my Tutorial for Removing Neck Gape from yesterday's post, change the shoulder darts to princess seams on the upper back piece, make the midriff band even more narrow than the previous three versions (I'm short waisted and don't think I can handle the super thick midriff band that the pattern shows), and add front gathers on the front and back skirt portions of the bodice. Only gathers from the bust apex inward to the CF on the skirt portion with no gathering on the sides. Keeping the gathers in a specific area allows for a more stream-lined profile from the front and back without adding extra width at the sides IMO.

Here's the redesigned front and midriff band. I ended up scooping out more on the neck, maybe a bit too much LOL. It didn't look too low on my dressform but the scoop is now more on the daring side ;) . I think I forgot about seam allowances when I marked the neckline. The horizontal line on the front midriff is where I took out even more additional width than the previous tops made from this pattern. The front was cut on the fold for this top, too, unlike the v-neck pattern front.

Here are the back pieces. I added a 1/4" Broad Back Adjustment, then made princess seams. Actually the princess seam below the shoulder dart is simply a style line.

Here are the front and back skirt pieces of the bodice. I slashed and spread the upper portion in three places to add gathering. I also added some length at the bottom to play around with my hemline length. It was unnecessary and removed anyway.

That completes summer top no. 3. The bodice and midriff band was interfaced and underlined with self fabric. I didn't line it as per the pattern because if side seam tweaking was necesarry with this fabric, it would have been a seamripping nightmare. In retrospect, no side seam adjusting was needed.

The armhole and neckband was finished with a self fabric bias binding folded over to the inside. One little, relatively minor issue arose while making this top that I'll include in my review, which will be done in the next few days.

On to my fourth summer project--that Butterick dress. The old noodle will be a hummin' with a necessary alteration for it tonight. Maybe I'll post about that tomorrow.


2BSewing: said...

I love your floral top. Very bright and summery. You've definitely got the perfect fit. You look lovely.

Cennetta said...

Isn't is a great feeling when your kids finally approve of something you designed and/or styled for yourself. lol Your top is perfect and very flattering on you.

Robin said...

Thanks for posting the pattern pic. Your version fits you PERFECTLY! No gaping at all on the neck or anywhere. I think you need hot pink kitten heel mules.