The Coat is DONE!

What a day! The kids had a two-hour delay so I was able to get the buttons on the coat and call it done! Pictures first, followed by a review.

Here's my version (I tried to get the same pose as the pattern...):

Here's the Burda version on right:

Other views (yeah, I'm back to that black leather skirt. It just goes with everything!):

The significance of the first garment project of the year!:

Working on the review right now. Lots of info on this one. This is my first garment of the year. I like it so much I plan on making another as my next project. Everything went smoothly--no major issues.

Comments on bagging the lining: Claire Shaeffer's instructions in the book are great. However, I probably wouldn't use them for a first-ever lining project. I would highly recommend doing jackets and coats with linings (not bagging them) first. Maybe 2 or 3. Then the concept of bagging will seem pretty clear. Attaching the lining to the facings and neckline is easy. That's what we're typically used to. The hem and sleeve hems are done pretty much the same way. That's the part that can be a little confusing so the instructions have to be followed to a T if you don't bag a lot of linings.

Claire's book covered areas to interface which were very similar to what I already do. She had info on creating sleeve heads from wadding as opposed to batting, the difference being the edges of the wadding can be feathered. It didn't matter for my project because the wool was a nice weight.

The lining was drafted as per Claire's instructions. I was going to use the pattern's lining but nixed the idea. Her lining instructions were clear and they appeared to be very good technique-wise.

I used the 1/2" shoulder pads that were in my stash. Part of the 10 or so pairs I bought back in the mid/late '80's when I thought the big shouldered look would never go out of style LOL. Her lining instructions are written to accomodate shoulder pads too. I topstitched the collar, front edges, and back CB seam. I looked at my daughter's and my pea coat for guidance on where to topstitch.

Here are some more pics of details. Coat front:

Leather welt pocket on front:

Topstitching detail. I used blue thread. I wanted definition of a topstitchingline but no color. I was going to use the blue for the buttonholes but DD#1 said, "No way!" She commented that this was one of those times where she was definite that the buttonholes should be done in black. She looked at the two samples and was sure. So I followed her advice like a good mother ;) . Sure wish it worked the other way LOL.

Sleeve hem/lining:

Coat lining:

Button detail. I think these were from JoAnn's. They were okay. I sure wish I lived closer to NYC sometimes. It would be great to be able to see, feel, and peruse the selection of notions in trim stores.

Back with a topstitched back seam:

That's pretty much it with the photos. Overall, I am so pleased with this coat. It is a little boxy, but I think it works for my figure. My legs are long and thin so it balances out the boxy style. I have some PR Weekend 2006 wool and a matching lovely lining in my stash and I want to make the same coat again. My wardrobe is in desparate need of nice coats. I'm getting tired of the same old, same old, black and grey pea coats I see in the stores.

And I'll tell ya! This coat didn't come too soon! I finished on what will likely be the coldest day/night of the year. Something like a low of 0 degrees Fahrenheit tonight. That means lots of homes in our area with frozen pipes!

Happy Sewing and STAY WARM if you're in 3/4 of the US.

Almost Finished with My Coat!

Oh, I'm getting excited! I'll try to take pics in a day or two when it *should* be done. Most of the lining has been bagged, just have to work on the sleeves. A small area between the side seams and front facing was left open for hem fiddling/handsewing. In a previous post, I mentioned by sewing pitfall--inaccurate sewing. I have to work at being precise. Therefore, my front hems at the CF weren't aligning perfectly. I fudged it, now I have to fudge the lining on the one side.

Claire Shaeffer's instructions in her "High Fashion Sewing Secrets" book appears to be very sound IMO. I'm trying to follow her instructions for bagging a lining to a T. Next coat/jacket, I'll use the Palmer/Pletsch instructions in "Jackets For Real People" to make a comparison on the instructions.

Shaeffer's instructions are very clear and the diagrams are good. It would, however, be a little confusing to a newbie sewer, but with much thought one could work it out. The concept of bagging a lining can throw you at first, but it is not really hard. It has been a long time since I've bagged a lining, maybe 15 years. So it's a common sense type of thing, yet has that "new" feeling to me. It's nice to have solid instructions rather than relying on the pattern. That is something I wish I had many years ago.

My one piece of advice for a sewer who is bagging a lining for the first time? When the instructions tell you to pull the jacket through the opening in the sleeve (as per Claire's instructions), DON'T let go LOL :) ! Keep pulling until it's done. Don't set it down to do something else because when you go back to it, you'll be saying, "Now which way do I pull???"

I'm off to ready myself to do the sleeve hems. Gotta get some food in my tummy so I'm ready to go with this.

The "Hard Part" is Done.

If you have never done welt pockets before, DON'T believe it when someone tells you they're hard. They're not. You will, however, need good, thorough instructions, Gingher No. 5 (or similar) scissors that can cut right to a point, and precision measuring/sewing.

I recommend Ann's Welt Pocket article in the January 2006 issue of Threads or Kenneth King's Zippered Welt instructions. I took his class, but he probably has the info on one of his CD's too.

This morning I finished the "hard" part. The precision sewing that is required to make the outside look good. Here is a pic of my morning effort:




Here is a closeup:


The hardest part of doing these welts was the difference in fabric. I've never used leather before as welt lips so the part where Ann has the sewer zigzag the lips together before attaching needed modification. I started handsewing them together with a slipstitch from the wrong side. It wasn't working. My hand sewing needle broke and it was just too tough to do.

I decided to zigzag (yes, I know...I'm working with leather) the lips together with a VERY narrow zigzag with a long stitch length. My hope is that when I pull the stitch out, the holes will be minimal and not noticeable. I mean, we're talking about welt pockets here that aren't at eye level. If someone notices tiny holes on the edges of my welt lips, they're too darn close--get out of my personal space LOL. You can see the zigzag stitching on the closeup with the light blue thread.

Other than that, sewing the welts was a breeze, and as Ann indicates in her article, lots of pressing. And very careful pressing around the leather. If you haven't done welt pockets yet, get going! Let that be another 2009 goal. They are really very easy, so have NO fear! The right tools and good instructions make them a stress-free sewing technique.

The pocket bags will have to wait, probably until tomorrow. My house is a disgrace and the bills need to be paid. I really do think a lot about cleaning. Unfortunately, thinking is about as far as I get much of the time. So if you're sewing this afternoon or evening, I'm envious. But life as to take over some time I guess.

ETA...Does anyone know if there is going to be a Great Coat Sewalong II? I'd love to pick up tips and techniques for better construction.