If you have never done welt pockets before, DON'T believe it when someone tells you they're hard. They're not. You will, however, need good, thorough instructions, Gingher No. 5 (or similar) scissors that can cut right to a point, and precision measuring/sewing.
I recommend Ann's Welt Pocket article in the January 2006 issue of Threads or Kenneth King's Zippered Welt instructions. I took his class, but he probably has the info on one of his CD's too.
This morning I finished the "hard" part. The precision sewing that is required to make the outside look good. Here is a pic of my morning effort:
Here is a closeup:
The hardest part of doing these welts was the difference in fabric. I've never used leather before as welt lips so the part where Ann has the sewer zigzag the lips together before attaching needed modification. I started handsewing them together with a slipstitch from the wrong side. It wasn't working. My hand sewing needle broke and it was just too tough to do.
I decided to zigzag (yes, I know...I'm working with leather) the lips together with a VERY narrow zigzag with a long stitch length. My hope is that when I pull the stitch out, the holes will be minimal and not noticeable. I mean, we're talking about welt pockets here that aren't at eye level. If someone notices tiny holes on the edges of my welt lips, they're too darn close--get out of my personal space LOL. You can see the zigzag stitching on the closeup with the light blue thread.
Other than that, sewing the welts was a breeze, and as Ann indicates in her article, lots of pressing. And very careful pressing around the leather. If you haven't done welt pockets yet, get going! Let that be another 2009 goal. They are really very easy, so have NO fear! The right tools and good instructions make them a stress-free sewing technique.
The pocket bags will have to wait, probably until tomorrow. My house is a disgrace and the bills need to be paid. I really do think a lot about cleaning. Unfortunately, thinking is about as far as I get much of the time. So if you're sewing this afternoon or evening, I'm envious. But life as to take over some time I guess.
ETA...Does anyone know if there is going to be a Great Coat Sewalong II? I'd love to pick up tips and techniques for better construction.