Alterations Part 2--The Front!

Now that the back alterations are done, I'm moving on to the front alterations today for Simplicity 3624, I figured the bust width was fine since I'm using a multi-size blend from 10 at the neck/shoulders blending to a 14 from the upper chest down to hem. I love multi-size patterns for this reason. However, that may not eliminate the gaping that usually occurs on my figure in the lower front armhole. For some that means more bust room. For me it doesn't. There's ample bust room (width). My issue is the shaping that needs to occur from my full bust to my hollow chest. Here are the two fronts--the commercial pattern on the left, the sloper pattern on the right. I'm not too concerned about the armhole depth because the sloper fits like a glove. The area of concern to me is the armhole shape. The commercial pattern has a very gentle curve, the sloper is more pronounced. This curvier armhole shape is what works for me. If I don't alter the curve, I'm going to get pronounced draglines at the lower armhole radiating to the bust.

So what I'm going to do is use my favorite FFRP "shoulder slide" method. If you have the book, it's found on pages 202/203 . This creates a curvier armhole by sliding the front shoulder seam over to the neck by an amount necessary to reduce the gape (usually about a 1/2" for me). What will happen is that the excess at the neck will be cut off and the armhole will need to be filled in with tissue. Here is the commercial pattern shown with the shoulder slide *AND* forward shoulder alteration.

Here is the sloper pattern with my finished front pattern piece with the neckline trued. Notice the curvier armhole shape that more closely resembles the armhole curve on my sloper. The only other additional alteration made was to add 3/8" to the side seam to make my total seam allowances 1" for fit insurance.

And that completes my front bodice alterations. The only other thing I might do would be to move the shoulder seam at the neck forward, maybe 1/4". IMO, that's best left to do in fabric at this point because I don't know if it will be necessary. Tomorrow--the sleeves! And I'm really interested in any comments on how I do my sleeve alteration. I'm wondering if others encounter the same issue I face.